The first Patek Philippe Nautilus, designed by the great Gerald Genta in 1976, became one of the most sought-after sports watches of the 21st century.
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The quartz crisis sparked by Seiko's first commercial quartz watch in the 1970s nearly brought the entire Swiss watch industry to a standstill. Known for their accuracy and cheap production, quartz watches have had a huge impact on the watchmaking industry. Swiss-made mechanical watches are suddenly considered imprecise and overpriced compared to cheaper and more accurate quartz watches. Many Swiss watchmakers, including Patek Philippe, joined the quartz bandwagon in an attempt to fight the crisis, but to no avail, they failed.
Precious metal luxury dress watches were popular in the 1900s. When collectors think of Patek Philippe, they probably think of gold Calatrava. Steel watches are considered "poor man's" watches and gold is a luxury.
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To survive the quartz crisis, Swiss watchmakers had to take a different, new and innovative approach to their watches to justify their luxury prices.
Introducing the new Patek Philippe Nautilus... oh wait. In fact, Audemars Piguet pioneered the idea of a stainless steel "luxury" sports watch back in 1972, four years before AP's main competitor, Patek Philippe, whose response was to launch the first Nautilus at Baselworld. (Goodbye Baselworld!)
Audemars Piguet made a bold move with the Royal Oak, made of stainless steel, that sold for as much as a gold thin dress watch.
Royal Oak's iconic octagonal bezel shape with eight hex screws? Gerald Genta. (Also the designer of the Patek Philippe Nautilus.)
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The first generation of Patek Philippe Nautilus
"The shape of a porthole on a transatlantic liner." Nautilus was inspired by Genta, who was eating in a hotel restaurant. guess what? Patek Philippe executives dine at the same restaurant. In 5 minutes, he sketches his thoughts on the most iconic Patek Philippe sports watch on a napkin.
The Nautilus follows the Royal Oak's nautical theme, but Genta significantly simplified the design to prevent too many similarities. While the Royal Oak is a pure octagon, the Nautilus has a smoother shape and less angularity than AP. The overall shape is inspired by the "porthole", with two "ears" on either side of the case, reminiscent of the hinges on a ship's window.
The case size of the first Nautilus “Jumbo” Ref 3700 was 42mm, which is quite large even by today’s standards. However, the watch is thin, only 7.6mm in height. The Nautilus is a truly elegant and luxurious sports
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Not only is the Nautilus an unusual offering from Patek Philippe, even its presentation box is a far cry from the norm. The first Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 3700 was delivered in cork and steel presentation boxes, but the modern Nautilus is no longer presented to customers in cork boxes. (Unless you have the 40th Anniversary Edition, you're in luck!)
Before Nautilus, Patek had no sports watches or steel watches. A conservative brand like Patek Philippe has launched a stainless steel watch with a one-piece bracelet, large case and bold design, which is a huge move. However, this unconventional attempt has achieved great commercial success in the current market.
modern nautilus
Demand for the Nautilus was fairly slow at first, but that all changed when Patek Philippe introduced the quartz ladies Nautilus and a mid-size men's version measuring just 37mm. Nautilus was added to precious metals such as gold shortly thereafter. In the current secondary market, Nautilus Ref 5711/1A has the highest premium. Even Shark Tank investor Kevin O'Leary had to wait 8 years to get his 5711!
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Let's take a look at some popular references currently on the market.
5711
elegant. complicated. However sporty. The Patek Philippe Ref 5711/1A debuted in 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus. 40mm is regarded as the gold standard size for sports watches by the watch industry. White gold baton hour markers with luminous coating. There's almost nothing happening on the dial, but it's so enticing. This "standard" stainless steel Nautilus is the most popular model in the current range, mainly because of its resemblance to the original Nautilus Ref 3700.
5712
Ref 5711 Slightly more complicated brother. This was also (just like the Ref 5711) launched in 2016 to mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection. The Ref 5712 is a new version of its predecessor, the Ref 3712, and is the most complex Nautilus ever made by Patek Philippe before the Refs 5726, 5740 and 5990. Gradient blue.
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With a diameter of 40 mm and a height of 8.52 mm, the dial is a model synonymous with the stainless steel Nautilus. The seconds hand is located on an off-centre subdial at 4 o'clock, while the larger seconds subdial with date and moon phase display is located between 6 o'clock and 8 o'clock. The power reserve indicator is located between 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock. Asymmetrical dials may break the traditional rules of Nautilus symmetrical dials. However, the longer you look at the Ref 5712, the more you start to appreciate the anomaly on the dial.
5726
A stainless steel nautilus with annual calendar and blue dial? perfect! The Ref 5726's annual calendar mechanism displays the day and month in two coaxial windows at 12 o'clock and a date window at 6 o'clock. Above the date window is a 24-hour day and night indicator that surrounds the moon phases.
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The Nautilus Annual Calendar Moon Phase is 40.5mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height, and is 2.78mm thicker than the 5712 due to the more complicated 324 S QA LU movement. Ref 5726 offers a more contemporary look to younger audiences.
5990
The perfect traveler's companion! Back in 2014, the 40.5mm column-wheel flyback chronograph and the stainless steel dual-hour Nautilus were introduced. Ref 5990 has two different hour hands on the same axis for dual time zone display. The skeleton hour hand shows the local time and the solid hour hand shows the local time. Additionally, there are two separate day/night indicators, labeled HOME and LOCAL, for a more user-friendly display. The two push-rod correctors on the left are used to adjust the local time zone in 1-hour increments. The 60-minute counter at six o’clock complements the central chronograph seconds hand. On the basis of the Ref 5980, Patek Philippe developed the new CH 28-520 C FUS movement for the Ref 5990, a chronograph with a column wheel design and an innovation with date, day/night and travel time complications Disc clutch.
In addition to the stainless steel version, the Nautilus is also available in various precious metals such as rose and white gold, as well as different complications. (Ref 5980 - Chronograph, Date and Ref 5740 - Perpetual Calendar).
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Why should you own a Nautilus?
Because you should. Because everyone who can afford one wants one. Nautilus' beautiful curves and attractive finishes are every collector's dream.
"You never really own a Patek Philippe. You just take care of it for the next generation."
As the last independent family-owned watchmaker in Geneva (Vacheron Constantin is a subsidiary of Richemont), Patek Philippe prides itself on 100% in-house watchmaking. Every Patek Philippe timepiece is meticulously handcrafted to deliver on the promise of producing precise, well-crafted timepieces. The Patek Philippe Nautilus is the epitome of sportiness, elegance and sophistication. But if you're thinking about walking into AD or a boutique and buying any Nautilus on the spot, I'm sorry to burst your bubble. With waiting lists of 10 years or more (unless you're a VVIP), your only option to become a proud owner of Nautilus is the secondary market.
Otherwise, maybe "you never actually owned a Patek Philippe. You just looked after the next generation's waiting list."
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